I agree with Elias. It makes no sense that the reflected light is actually more intense than the light source. You should still use f16 even though the reflected light reading tells you smth else, unless your intentions are to make general ambient light readings or maybe other specific cases, but then, of course, you can use your camera. The whole idea about having a photometer nowadays is to measure incident light. and if you take a photo of your face at f16, of course, it will be brighter (as Elias pointed out), but you will not loose detail.

I agree with Elias. It makes no sense that the reflected light is
actually more intense than the light source. You should still use f16
even though the reflected light reading tells you smth else, unless your
intentions are to make general ambient light readings or maybe other
specific cases, but then, of course, you can use your camera. The whole
idea about having a photometer nowadays is to measure incident light.
and if you take a photo of your face at f16, of course, it will be
brighter (as Elias pointed out), but you will not loose detail.

Hey Aaron, Will in Raleigh =)
When using my L-358 and shooting landscapes (you know, those old dark factories, schools, and crap I crawl around in) on medium format film (Gasp! Film!) I find I take a number of readings and divide them by their stops.
Take this morning. I was shooting in an abandoned elementary school near Fayetteville, and there were streaks of light cutting across a darkened hallway. Ambient readings show f/2.8 at 1/2 second in the light areas, and f/2.8 at 4 seconds in the darkened area. Split between the three.five stop difference (1 second, 2 second, 4 second) tells me that a baseline exposure of 2 second will ball-park my exposure, giving details in both lit and unlit areas.
I had a model there a few weeks ago, in the same hallway, and as it was brighter, I found an exposure of 1/100th at f/8 really good for dark ambient lighting, and then strobed her for 1/100th at f/1.2 to get a good pop. Below is her image, shot with the 85mm f/1.2 L on the 5DMKII
Keep up the great work,. sorry I’ve not been around as of late, just been really busy…

Will

“Put in manual mode, you’ll just have to guess on your aperture…”

Why not put the camera in shutter priority mode, and it will tell the proper aperture right away?

Light meter doesn’t tell you how set up camera. Light meter just measure the light. It is your decision how you want to use the light in your image.
If you will measure middle gray(incident mode) you will have “technically correctly” exposed image and your light skin will be light(not overexposed) or darker skin will be darker(not underexposed).
The spot meter is like a spot meter in the camera, but it is more precise and allows to measure flash.
You can use spot meter to may sure that black will be black or highlights will not be clipped.
Especially with L758 you can check if everything is within dynamic range, thanks to the memory function.
E.g.
-for studio.
Measure key light (incident mode)hidden Lumisphere. Press memory.
Measure fill light and it will show you how many stops you are under (or over) with your fill. And than you can adjust the fill for specific ratio.
-for landscape
Measure (spot meter) darkest spot were you still want to see details. Press memory.
Measure (spot) brightest spot where you want to see details. Press memory.
Switch to incident metering mode and measure the light from sun(or sky if overcast). Press mid.tone.
Now press AVE. button to find exposure setting which will allow you to include the most info in the image.
In case of very high dynamic range you can decide if you care more about shadows or highlights details. Or If you need to use ND grad filter.(this technique probably will not work with JPEG so shoot RAW) 

Or you can fire 20 brackets and hope one will be good. To bed if the one overexposed will have something interesting going on but will not be useable;)