Feb 17, 2015

How to Remove Glare from Glasses in Photoshop

It’s always a sad time when you end up with unwanted reflections in someone’s glasses! Learn how to utilize the clone source dialogue to remove glare in today’s episode!

Short and Sweet

For this technique, you will need to make sure that there is one eye that is relatively clear of reflection, so that we can use it to copy to the other eye.

The clone stamp settings we use are (found on the top bar):

  • Opacity- 100%
  • Flow- 100%
  • Sample: Current and Below

To get to the Clone Source Dialogue, go to Window – Clone Source. This is where we can really get down to the nitty gritty details. Here, some helpful things to do are:

  • Turn on “Show Overlay” to reveal a preview of what you are cloning
  • Flip the Width so that the cloning is flipped horizontally

Then, we clone from the left eye over to the right eye to take care of the majority of the glare. Be sure to match up the glasses as closely as you can; the preview is helpful for this! Feel free to use layer masks to fix any areas that were cloned too much.

We also use a lower opacity clone stamp (50%) to smooth out some rougher areas.


user image You
(will not be published)

  • user image

    Nice tutorial, Aaron. Being able to flip the cloning horizontally is a great new (to me) feature! Was dealing with reflections on glasses a few days ago. Would have been so much easier to do it this way. Thanks as always!

  • user image

    Perfect, thank you! I was able to watch this today and immediately put it to use. I never knew about those great clone tool options.

  • user image

    Hey Aaron:

    Thanks so much for this! I had ask this question before and am so glad you did a video on it… Love all your free advice!!! How long are going with your hair?????

    • user image

      Thank you for watching Irene! I’ll be growing my hair out until the end of time! 😀

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    Anirban Sen

    Is it possible to do this when the head is tilted i.e. when the eyes are not parallel to each other?

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      Dave Herndon

      I’m sure there is an easier way than the way I do it, but it works. I select the head, rotate it so the eyes are parallel, fix, place head back in original location.

    • user image

      You could try using another photo in the series. If you took more than one shot in this relative position you could find one that works on her left eye. (camera right) Drag it into a new layer. Clone stamp the good eye from the other image onto a new layer and fit it accordingly. Then of course take the time to blend everything in. Which takes more time than you would think.

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    Paul Lasky

    How about the Patch tool ? . . . a much easier option that does the same thing while giving you faster previews.

  • user image

    Great episode! I really loved the show a few weeks back where you provided the sample photo. Can you do that more often, please?

  • user image

    Learning about the clone source dialogue is the best thing ever. TY so very much. You are the best.

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    muhammad zoqaib

    Thank you its so awesome i like and i didnt know about this think 🙂

  • user image

    brilliant way of teach. def making it phun and actually beneficial. thank you 🙂

  • user image

    This helped me a lot. Thanks! Any chance you could make a tutorial how to add normal glasses to a person in a photo?

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    Chuck Martin

    I photograph horses (portraits or while jumping with rider) and I would like for you to produce a Tutorial explaining how to place the horse (or cat, dog, snake, etc) onto a black background. Your tutorials are so easy to understand and I have worked so hard on my own trying make it happen … to no avail. Can you please help me?

  • user image

    Brilliant. Thanks. This simple technique made it so much quicker and easier to fix a rogue reflection that I just had to deal with now.

  • user image

    Excellent episode! I just found it as I was struggling with this very thing – did not know about the Clone Source dialogue, so many thanks, as always.

    Just wondering if there was any reason the frequency separation method would be pointless or inefficient on the workflow for the detail retouching around the eye? I have it all set up as an action so it makes life pretty straightforward and very quick, especially where pores and fine lines are concerned!